Dinner at Joel Robuchon The Mansion Las Vegas

My cousin — whom I have not seen in about a year, due to her attendance in graduate school in CA — flew into Las Vegas to celebrate her birthday with me.  We began our evening at Joel Robuchon The Mansion last night.  Different from L'Attlier's more casual-elegant/trendy atmosphere, The Mansion exuded formality, so much so that I was almost uncomfortable taking pictures to share with everyone (note:… almost, the pics are up).

 

 

 

They decorated everything in the restaurant an eggplant purple; purple couches, purple velvet walls, drapes, etc., all except for a far wall, which they adorned with indoor vines.  The green vines and eggplant décor contrasted nicely, albeit it did have somewhat of a Prince "Purple Rain" feeling to it (in a French sort of way).

 

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We began with Amuse Bouche they called La Sangria, Frosty little pearls of Sangria on top of fruit juice perfumed with blood orange and orange flower water.  This dish arrived in a smoke-emitting vessel, which added mystique and flair to simple flavors.  We were amazed at the perfectly cut, miniscule pieces of banana, orange, apple, and mango (?) we discovered at the bottom of a ½ gelatin/ ½ sangria juice that they topped with a blood-orange ice.  And, they decorated the plate with all sorts of dried flowers, adding additional elegance to its presentation.

 


 

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Then came the bread.  There were dozens of different rolls, baguettes sliced loves and crisps to choose from.  I opted first to try the Gruyere and the Comte rolls while Michele tasted the Lardon du Pain (mmm, bacon).  As to be expected, we could taste the added creaminess of the French butter they placed in a brick on our table—- a brick we slowly chiseled away at throughout the evening.

 


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We enjoyed
a phenomenal bottle of burgundy ... Morey Saint Denis 2002.  What a supple, sexy wine! It played a sophisticated dance of flavors on my tongue;  light body; delicate structure; hints of gardenias and wild flowers; just ever a touch of smoke, yet it contained enough acidity to stand up to even the bolder dishes we paired it with.

 


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We each ordered appetizers.  Michelle chose one of The Mansion's signature dishes, La Langoustine truffée et cuite en ravioli à l'étuvée de chou vert.  Unable to pass up morels, I decided upon the Morel, Asparagus and braised leeks dish.

 


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As a main course, Michele graduated from langoustine to lobster, while I opted for The Mansion signature dish: Le Veau en côte au plat avec un jus gras et escorté de taglierinis de légumes au pistou (Sautéed veal chop with natural jus and vegetable taglierinis flavored with pesto).  


 


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Our server presented me with a grand and beautiful wooden board.  On it sat a copper casserole that included a very large double veal chop— so large it intimated me.  At first glance, I thought…  "Oh my!  How am I going to eat that whole thing?"  To my relief, they took the board away and returned a few minutes later with a trimmed, manageable portion of veal and a log-shaped roll of spun zucchini pasta dressed in a pine-nut pesto sauce.

 

 
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When biting into the veal, I took note of how delicate and soft its texture was – quite similar in texture to the brick of butter we continued to indulge in.  Slowly, deliberately, I finished my veal.  I was quite proud of myself.  When the waiter came over and said, "Madam, are your ready for your second portion of veal?" 


 

 

"Second portion?"  I looked at him quizzically.  "There's more?"


 

 

"Yes, madam," he replied frankly.


 

 

"Can my friend share it with me?"  I asked desperately.  "But of course, madam."


 

 

Moments later, he returned with two smaller portions of the veal – this time served with a salad of wild greens, fennel, and dill. Now, stuffed to the gills, I attempted to continue.


 

 

At this point, we had past the "ohhs" and "oh-m-god! This is Good's" stage of the meal and began to enter into a food-high that numbed the senses (all but our taste buds).  We sat, gazing into our wine glasses and prepared ourselves for cheese.


 

 

As many of you know, I happen to like cheese.  I look forward to cheese.  When the Fromagier arrived with cheese cart, I perked up.  Michele looked afraid, but only for a moment.



 

With the help of our friendly fromagier, we concocted a cheese plate creation and Michele's tasting lesson began:  tete de moine (gruyere style from Switzerland);  St. Nectaire (it was nectar alright);  Brillat Savarain (one of my favorite tripple-creme brie cheeses; I dare say this cheese is sexy), St. Maure (Loire valley goat cheese with ash mold — mmm), Epoissis; Tomme De Brebie Abbeaye de Belloq (yummy sheep's-milk Basque cheese); Livarot; and Frome d' Ambert (one of the oldest style cheeses in France), a creamy cow's milk rendition of Roquefort). 


 


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With the cheese, we drained the last drops of our Burgundian treasure and moved into dessert.


 

 

Michele ordered the Le Caramel en crémeux au Macadamia, chocolat à l'ancienne, glace au Teecino vanilla (Caramel and Macadamia nuts, chocolate cream topped with vanilla ice cream). Michele's dessert arrived wrapped in spun cotton candy.  I tried Le Café en glace, crème légère au citron, riz soufflé caramelize (Coffee ice cream, light lemon cream, caramelized puffed rice).

 


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My dessert likened to a coffee Sunday.

 


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Silently, we dipped into our desserts ,when I noticed a funny look on Michele's face.  "What is it?"  I asked.  

 

"Glitter"



 

"Glitter?  What glitter?"  I was convinced all that rich food and wine went to her brain and she was now hallucinating. 


 

 

"Don't you see it?" she asked.


 

 

I did not see glitter.  I did not see anything. 


 

 

"Look, there it is," she said as she lifted a fork full of the cotton candy that the pastry chef sp carefully spun around her caramel crème.  


 

 

Suddenly, I saw it.  Like pixie dust, gold glitter glistened in the air, hovering above her plate.  Now, I thought I too had gone mad. Images of Peter Pan came flashing into my mind…  "I do believe in Fairies, I do believe in Fairies.  Magic is real."


 

 

When the waiter came back, we asked him about the glitter.  He informed us that they included gold chefs' glitter into the cotton candy; so that each time we released a fork-full, it would sprinkle down like confetti.  My sanity was restored.


 

 

Then, they brought us sorbet, Michele and I both chose coconut, which tasted like dense coconut foam.   My brain and body were screaming…  "No more food!"  The Darjeeling tea I ordered soothed me.  We then ended up with an interesting assortment of petit fours…  A hard candy with Kir that exploded in my mouth; a chocolate truffle with pistachio cream; a chocolate peppermint stick that tasted exactly like mint leaves; a sake meringue; and finally an almond rocca.


 


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I felt like I never wanted to eat again.  We were so full — we went into food coma — you know that state of existence when you linger between bliss and Homer-Simpson-esque comatose.  In addition, when I received the bill — I almost had a heart attack.


I expected a large bill.  I do not have a problem paying for a wonderful meal if I budget appropriately — which I did.  I knew that The Mansion would be pricey, and expected it. 

However, I paid more for this meal than I have for some jewelry.  I think I am canceling my reservations tonight.  I cannot even think about more food — as much as be excited for it — And that bill bit me hard and sent me wincing in the corner. 

 

I guess to soften the blow, they gave each of us an entire lemon/orange pound cake to go.  In spite of the bestial chunk this meal took of my wallet, the exquisite food and excellent service will mark Michele's and my memory for time to come.

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  • 12/14/2007 8:39 PM Renee wrote:
    Wow, wow, wow. I don't know how I missed this before now, but wow. I don't want to know what the bill was, but the food looks amazing.
    Reply to this

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