I am so glad I took a hotel room in Manhattan Saturday night!  After drinking a considerable amount of wine at dinner, I really appreciated the ability to be back at the hotel within ten minutes and pass out.  Sunday morning, I woke up early and started to write up the previous day's activities for my blog.  I made it about halfway through before I had to check out and get moving.

In my morning seminar, Marcus Samuelson (owner of Aquavit and Ringo) talked about African cuisine (something I know little-to-nothing about).  He explained that different African countries have completely dissimilar cuisines based on their dependence on foreign trade and interaction with other cultures.  He talked about the principals of adding and removing heat to develop flavor profiles within a dish and the various uses of chilies. 

Now – I have an ultra-sensitive palate – so spicy foods quickly overwhelm me.  At last, year-s Gourmet Institute, I had an "Ah-Ha" moment when Sara Moulton made a Thai curry coconut soup.  I learned a good dish could have heat without overwhelming the rest of its flavors and numbing my tongue (preventing me from tasting anything else for hours).  I could clearly distinguish the coconut and cilantro from the curry.

For his first dish, Marcus dusted shrimp with a dried chili powder mix specific to Africa and salt.  He then cut up medium and hot chilies — like Serranos – and put them in a blender with cilantro, mint, limejuice, and olive oil.  He marinated shrimp in that mixture for a few moments and then seared it with olive oil in a hot skillet.  Marcus served these shrimp wrapped in a lettuce leaf with a dollop of a mint-yogurt sauce inside. 

The lettuce and the sauce cooled the slow-burning heat from the shrimp and I tasted every flavor element he added – the shrimp, powder, the marinade, the sauce and the lettuce.  I am kicking myself for not photographing this unbelievably beautiful and tasty dish.  I wish I could share it with you.

Then he demonstrated how to make an Ethiopian chicken stew.  He started caramelizing a ridiculous amount of onions (which usually takes about two hours), then he placed seasoned (with that chili powder mix) chicken into the pot with the onions.  He added garlic and chicken stock and allowed it to cook (it takes about 12 hours of slow cooking).  His staff served the stew with Ethiopian bread made from an ancient grain and a side of mango salsa (made with sesame seeds).  This stew is superb.  I bought his new cookbook just to try to replicate these two recipes.

Marcus is opening an African restaurant in the meatpacking district in the next few months – I can't wait to go!

Awake and well seasoned, I moved along to Michele Richard's seminar on "Chicken Nuggets."  For those of you who may be unfamiliar with Michele – he is a most unusual French chef.  He moved from France to America (about 20+ years ago) and earned renown as pastry chef.  After some time, he moved to Los AngelesLACE> and opened a bakery/café.  Owning a café awoke Michele's love of cooking and he went on to become of America is best French chefs.  He currently owns Citronelle in Washington D.C.

Michele is a jovial, light-hearted, and boisterous man that exudes fun wherever he goes.  He walked down the hallway before the seminar, where I stood waiting.

"Bonjour Michele," I said.

"Bonjour madame ! ce va aujourd'hui? Bien?"  He responded, as he took my hand and leaned in to kiss my cheek.  "Kisses, kisses, I must have kisses," he exclaimed and he entered the demonstration room.

Funny, charming, and extremely entertaining, Michele demonstrated how he makes chicken nuggets (which are GREAT hors d' oeuvres).  He seasoned boneless chicken breast and thighs, rolled them in plastic wrap to form a log and tied off the ends.  He then poached these chicken –logs using the sous vide method.  When they were cooked, he put the chicken logs in the fridge to cool. 

He then removed the crust from a French bread and put it into a Cuisinart to pulverize (making small lumps).  While he worked, he told funny stories of how Julia Child fell asleep on a cooking show he did with her. 

"I looked up from my cooking to see zee producer waving his arms frantically.  I looked around and found Julia passed out behind me snoring in zee chair," he shared in his thick French accent.  Michele performed his Julia Child impressions to roaring laughter from the audience.

In the meantime, he took another raw chicken breast and pureed it in another Cuisinart.  He fought, fumbled, and fussed with the machine as he added an egg white to the mixture – ultimately cutting his fingers on the blade.

He pulled the dish together by removing the cooled chicken breasts from their plastic, rolling them in the puree, and then breading them with the breadcrumbs.  He then deep-fried each chicken ball to create thick, beautiful – delicious – chicken nuggets.

I enjoyed another wonderful lunch of sponsor samples — olive oil, bread, cheese, cerviche and a fantastic duck and oyster gumbo from Chef John Besh (owner of August, Luke, La Provence and Besh Steak in Louisiana).  Michele Richard signed books in the hospitality pavilion during lunch.  I endulged in a 10 minute neck and shoulder massage (one of the sponsors offered free massages).  As the masseuse dug her elbows into my tension-filled shoulders, I heard Michele's voice as he ran up to me … "It's my turn, it's my turn!" he joked.

Sated, I returned to the Conde Nast building after lunch to listen to Anthony Bourdain and Eric Ripert talk about what it means to be a celebrity chef.  Those of you that have read my blogs in the past already know that I have often compared Chef Ripert's food to perfection.  The night before, his staff recognized and remembered me – greeting me as a returning customer.  The two of them sat down with a bottle of tequila and started to share stories. 

(My apologies for the dark photos – I sat far away and my flash is not powerful enough)

Chef Tony is notorious for his snarkiness.  Well, I found him really funny and honest to a fault.  "Working in a kitchen hurts!  My knees and back ached.  So this TV and writing gig came along at a good time.  I'm milking it for all it's worth," he chided. 

They talked about kitchen disasters.  Chef Tony had many, many stories (most he retold from his books).  Chef Ripert shared a story with us about how as a young cook in LACE w:st="on">FranceLACE> he almost electrocuted his obese, abusive tyrannical chef.  He cleaned the salamander with a pressure hose.  When the chef touched it, he almost died.  They had to shut the power down in the restaurant and rush the chef to the hospital. 

By the way — I asked them both how the food on Top Chef tasted.  They both said the overall food quality on the show is excellent —- greater than they expected.  Chef Ripert did tell us, though, that he tasted the worst dish of his life from a Top Chef contestant – chocolate ganache with chicken livers.  He said it was all he could do not to spit it into his napkin.

There is something off-balance about meeting a celebrity – when you admire them.  You see them on TV, read their books, eat their food, and cook their recipes.  They are in your homes every day.  You feel like you know them.  So, when presented with the opportunity to meet them in person, it is exciting.  However, they have absolutely no context of who you are whatsoever.  You are just some random person approaching them.  Some celebs are gracious, some undergo extensive people-handling training, and others are quick and rude. 

Overall, I felt like a blubbering teenager with backstage passes to a multi-band rock concert.  When I met Ruth, my brain said "Oh my god! Oh, my god! It's Ruth Reichl!!!!"  My mouth said, "Ruth, it is a pleasure to meet you. I truly admire your work."

With Chef Tony, my brain said, "Dude, you are too funny – let's go get drunk!" While my mouth said, "Thanks for talking to us today.  It's great to meet you."  At least with Chef Ripert, I could tell him of my frequency in his restaurant and share my admiration for his four-stage fluke ceviche and his lobster, langoustine and shrimp ravioli.  I did ask him why he took my favorite desert on earth of the menu – the rose mousse – and to my delight, it's coming back when raspberries are back in season! (yea!)

My experience ended with the proverbial "bang."  Thomas Keller gave a talk on The Success of the Modern Chef.  In direct contrast to Tony Bordain's quick quips, fast-and-loose attitude, and sarcastic humor, Thomas Keller exuded a quiet intensity.  He sat with Corey Lee, the Chef de Cuisine at The French Laundry and Jonathan Benno, the Chef de Cuisine at Per Se. 

I watched as the entirety of the Gourmet kitchen staff worked their way to the back of the room to listen to him speak.  Thomas Keller commanded attention.  His quiet intensity created an awe inspiring environment. Chefs from all over the United States came to this seminar just listen, like devout followers of the cult of Keller, and hung on his every word.

Arguably, the most talented chefs in the world today, these three gentlemen spoke softly with clear perspective and intent.  Chef Keller discussed his approach to food, the importance of understanding where food comes from and working with small, quality purveyors, and the challenges of managing multiple restaurants to exacting standards.  He talked about menu creation and the community of excellence he fosters within his kitchen.  We gained valuable insights into how he runs his kitchens and how they communicate with one another. 

Someone asked him what role customer feedback plays in his cooking.  He responded, "When I cook a piece of fish, and I think it is cooked to perfection and the customer is not happy with it, I think… that person doesn't know what they are talking about.  Conversely, when I cook a piece of fish and I think it is a little off, and the customer says it is the best fish they ever ate, I still think they do not know what they are talking about.  I don't know them, so I have no context for their feedback.  I can only cook for myself – to my own standards." 

Fortunately for Keller, his standards far exceed virtually any other chef on earth. 

To be fair, I believe his point is that guests dining in his restaurants expect greatness – regardless of their ability to appreciate it – and it is his mission (and that of his teams) to deliver greatness with every meal. 

I asked Chef Keller how much time he spends in each of his restaurants.  I don't think he liked my question because he began his answer somewhat defensively…

"I spend as much time as I can in all my restaurants.  When I am in New York, I am always in Per Se.  When I am in California I am always at French Laundry.  You see, when I only had French Laundry, I took two days off and spent five days a week at work.  Now, I travel so much that I feel that I must spend all my time in my restaurants.  I can no longer go to New York and just hang out in the city.  Now, I spend my New York visits at Per Se."

Chef Keller explained how they came up with the name for Per Se (it comes from the word ampersand) and why they closed the French Laundry for four months to open in New York.  He talked about how Corey Lee and Jonathon Benno rearranged their entire lives to learn from Keller and grow under his leadership.  Jonathon Benno originally worked at French Laundry.  He returned to New York, where he worked in other restaurants when Chef Keller called him and asked him to move back to California for 18 months to train in preparation for the launch of Per Se – when he moved back to LACE w:st="on">New YorkLACE>, again.

Folks watch out for these two Chef de Cuisines – Corey Lee and Jonathon Benno.  I suspect they will go on to become the next generation of LACE w:st="on">AmericaLACE>'s best chefs (Along with David Yang of Momofuko).  Their exacting excellence and depth of food knowledge reach palatial heights.  They are truly Top Chefs.

So, I returned home last night to a mountain of laundry, a messy house, and dogs that were happy to see me.  I will patiently await next year's Gourmet Institute.